2011年10月9日星期日

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The bottom is huge rocks and the hazards are rips, rocks, urchins and skis. Finding the
conditions too unsafe for the dog, Matienzo paddled back in and tied Maverick to the
car bumper, before rejoining the others. This place has been known to ocean-going ships and
fishermen for years. Bicep burn, out of 0-10 = 8! The water is cold and
there are heavy rips.The closest big city is Pichilemu. The other drawback to this wave
is that it blows out early most days.HAWAIIThe North Shore of Oahu is world famous.
To get the biggest waves at Cortes Bank, you need light winds, low tides, and
big storm swells from the northwest all at the same time. It's a powerful and
shifty deepwater wave, complete with weird boils and bumps in the face. Waves can routinely
crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 50 feet (15m). Located
approximately one-half mile (0.8 km) from shore in Pillar Point Harbor it is just north
of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. It became known as "Maverick's Point",
and later simply "Maverick's".Ghost Tree, Monterey Bay, CaliforniaThis picture was taken in on March 9th
2005 when Ghost Tree went huge and perfect and very very dangerous. With them was
a white-haired German Shepherd named Maverick, owned by a roommate of Matienzo.Maverick was used to
swimming out with his owner, or with Matienzo, while they were out surfing. Stretching for
more than 7 miles, the beaches of the North Shore host the world's premier surfing
competitions including the Super Bowl of wave-riding, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.BANZAI PIPELINEFrom November
to February surfers congregate on the North Shore hoping to catch that perfect wave. Before
2003 no one had been able to paddle out in this region due to the
shallow water and undertow, but it has now become recognised as one of the worlds
premier tow in waves and will easily hold 30ft+ waves.CORTES BANK, San DiegoCortez Bank is
a 17-mile underwater mountain range which rises to within 6 feet (2 m) of the
surface and is marked by a nearby warning buoy. Roughly two hours later, Don Curry,
the man who named the wave, and his partner Ed Guzman rolled up on the
channel just in time to watch a pair of 30-foot wave faces boom over the
spot's infamous boneyard and into Stillwater Cove. The Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, held
at Waimea Bay, takes place each winter.In winter, Waimea and other North Shore locations such
as Pipeline and Sunset Beach host a number of surfing contests because of the large
waves found here. It remains a rite of passage for any aspiring big wave charger
this side of Oahu. When it happened on January 19, 2001, California big wave riders
scrambled to test their skill against the biggest, baddest wave ever ridden. Very few riders
become big wave surfers; and of those, only a select few are willing to risk
the hazardous conditions at Maverick's. As with most big waves, a number of factors have
Tn Requin to intersect to make it all happen: in this case, the reef points directly into
the maw of northwest swells, and is flanked by a serious underwater canyon that focuses
long period swell energy down the point -- often doubling the size of whatever swell's
out there. It is dangerous.MEXICOThe Mexican Pipeline, Puerto EscondidoMexico is home to two of the
most powerful waves on earth. It occurs after a strong winter storm in the northern
Pacific Ocean. The winter swells that pound the Hawaiian shores come all the way from
the Alaskan Aleutian island chain in the far north of the Bering sea. You have
to take a 100 mile boat ride out to it. With the advent of tow-in
surfing, more and more big wave breaks have been discovered that are far superior in
quality than Waimea. Deep down in southern mainland Mexico at Puerto Escondido is a beach
break that surfers have coined "The Mexican Pipeline" - a comparison to the surf world's
most famous wave, Banzai Pipeline in Hawaii. Unimpeded by landfall they march across thousands of
miles of uninterrupted ocean hitting the Maui reef about a half mile offshore at Peahi
at almost 30kms an hour. It was named for the clipper ship Stillwell S. At
first light, Ghost Tree saw a 17-foot swell approaching from due west at 20-second intervals.
Arsenic and lead poisoning of adjacent marine waters and agricultural lands are common from coal
burning power plants, and the region surrounding Santos del Mar is remote and rural with
plentiful fishing grounds and small-scale agriculture. If there is such a thing as a perfect
wave, you'll likely find it on Oahu's North Shore. Bishop that struck the rock in
1855 (and with a patched hull made it to San Francisco). The height of the
wave can reach 70ft with an incredibly long tube.Nelscott Reef, OreganNelscott Reef creates a reef
break (where waves spill over to create whitewater) that is known as the only place
on the Oregon Coast with the right conditions for tow-in surfing and it is the
only spot to consistently produce double overhead waves, thus the event brings in big name
surfers. It is the surfing capital of the world. The reef and rocks at Jaws
are shaped in a way that magnify incoming swell energy and produce clean and well
defined right and left waves with gigantic barreling sections.CHILIPUNTA DE LOBO - south Santiago.Punta Lobos
is a fairly consistent left pointbreak wave, which breaks over sand and rock. The change
of seasons is dramatic, occurring within the space of a week and bringing with it
an equally sudden increase in wave size. Winter wave heights can get as high 20
feet, with faces up to 50 feet! This extreme surf is for experts only, and
even then conditions are considered highly dangerous. The swells continued growing until they were well
over 45ft. World-renowned surf contests are held here from early November to late December. The
waves there signal danger on the underwater rocks and are so big they show up
tn requin on radar.This wave is truly in the middle of the ocean. The most famous are
the Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay. These waves are created by winter storms in the
North Pacific, and their arrival on O'ahu's North Shore are forecast accurately several days in
advance. During the winter season, giant swells generated in the north Pacific produce the most
consistently spectacular waves in the world. However, the bay still holds a significant place even
in today's world of big wave surfing.PEAHI or "JAWS" - MauiPeahi, otherwise known as 'Jaws',
breaks over a perfectly shaped triangle reef. Larger surf at the bay went unridden for
years until November 7, 1957 when a handful of surfers finally paddled out and rode
the giant waves that break off the northern point of the bay. The trio left
Maverick on shore, but he swam out and caught up with them. Surfers were arriving
from all over hoping to ride the wave.It was first surfed in 2005 and sadly
claimed a life in 2007. The big, glassy winter waves of this legendary surf mecca
attract the best surfers in the world. While the surf only breaks big several times
a year, Waimea was the most prestigious big wave surf break in the world for
decades. It is a world-famous surfing location in Northern California. Punta Lobos is one of
South America's biggest waves.Santos del Mar... "Outracing the exploding lip of a breaking wave is
like ski-ing in front of an avalanche" says Sean Collins of SurfLine Surf Forecaster.Since the
ancient Hawaiians first slid shoreward on their hand-carved Olo boards, riding the biggest wave of
the day has continued to be one of surfing's most revered accomplishments. The riders had
limited success that day, surfing the tail end of the break and generally deeming the
conditions too dangerous, but they decided to name the point after Maverick, who seemed to
have gotten the most out of the experience. The Van's Triple Crown of Surfing, which
includes the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Ali'i Beach Park in Hale'iwa; the O'Neill World Cup
at Sunset Beach; and the Billabong Pipeline Masters at Ehukai Beach (Banzai Pipeline), brings together
the world's best professional surfers.The merciless waves of Pipeline break just 50 to 100 yards
off the beach over a shallow reef making this one of the most dangerous surf
spots in the world.WAIMEAWaimea Bay is the birthplace of big wave surfing. An added advantage
during this time of year is that the evening session is often accompanied by strong
offshore winds which can result in world class conditions."Killers" at Todos Santos.1,700 miles north is
a reef break called "Killers", a huge wave which breaks 9-miles off the coast of
Ensenada at Isla Todos Santos where waves can reach heights of 70 feet and over.
The surf is seasonal, varying from small to medium in size during the dry season
(November to April), and from small to big during the rainy season (beginning in early
May). It was the West Coast's first legitimate big wave, discovered by the Windansea guys
back in the '60s, and unlike other waves with scary names - "widowmaker", "dead man's"
or "shark pits", "Killers" lives up to its reputation. There are a number of popular
surf breaks lining the coast. The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation.Maverick's
is a destination for some of the world's premier big wave surfers. But while the
professional surfing circuit has blossomed over the last two decades, offering millions of dollars in
prize money to agile small-wave performers, there has been no regularly-offered reward given to some
of the true heroes of our sport -the BIG WAVE CHARGERS.NORTH AMERICAMaverick'sMaverick's is a famous
big-wave surfing spot off Half Moon Bay south of San Francisco. And finally a cautionary
tale for all wanna-be environmentalists out there:"Southern Chile's newest big wave surf site, Santos del
Mar, and its surrounding coastline would be polluted if plans go ahead to construct a
proposed US$1.3 billion dollar coal-fired power plant on the coastline of Chile's 7th Region.Local surfers
and residents are concerned about the environmental degradation that would be caused by burning coal
at the facility. It is best in the winter, breaks to the right and the
best swells come from the Northwest. In summer, Waimea is known for it clear and
calm water.The surf break at Waimea Bay was significant in the development of Big wave
surfing. The force of these swells produce some truly monster waves in the 40-70 foot
range.The 'Jaws' surf break has reached its worldwide fame largely due to the frequent filming
and photography of tow-in surfing legends performing there on enormous ocean waves breaking at the
deep reef off the shore; famed big wave surfers such as tow-in surfing pioneers (also
known as "The Strap Crew"-for the rubber straps on their short surfboards to anchor their
feet against the forces): Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, Darrick Doerner, Buzzy Kerbox, Brett Little, Rush
Randle, Mark Angulo, Mike Waltze, Pete Cabrinha, and Brian Keaulana.Jaws is famous for its quality.
An invitation-only contest is held there every winter, depending on wave conditions.Do you know how
Maverkick's got its name? In early March of 1961, three surfers, Alex Matienzo, Jim Thompson,
and Dick Knottmeyer, decided to try the distant waves off Pillar Point. These waves move
so fast that surfers can't catch them by paddling, so you need jet skiers to
tow with a rope until they are moving fast enough to catch the wave.This spot
is for worldclass surfers only. It is a huge long powerful wall and will give
a ride of 1/4 mile (give or take 500m) without problem. It is supposed to
be scarier than Maverick's and heavier than Waimea and is one of the most dangerous
waves in the world. Furthermore, the proposed cooling towers for the electrical generator would use
marine waters via an industrial intake mechanism that is responsible for killing millions of fish
and marine mammals per year in similar facilities worldwide".To learn more about this and other
extreme sports go to http://www.xtremesport4u.wordpress.comHere we discuss such varying sports as kite surfing, to wingsuit
flying.author: Lola Jones.
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